You’ll save money, your experience will be less structured, and your mobility increased if you take on the island independently. An organized tour, however, enables you to quickly see what Bali has to offer. Then you may decide to go back and experience in depth what you enjoyed most. In nearly every case, it’s possible to do some independent touring before and after your tour. Contact the Indonesian embassy or consulate in your home country (see ‘Indonesian Embassies and Diplomatic Missions Abroad’) for tour companies specializing in Bali. In Indonesia, any of the regional tourist offices can help you select the right tour company (see “Information and Services,” later in this chapter).

There’s a wide range of guided tour activities to choose from: volcano-climbing, bicycling, skin diving, snorkeling, sunbathing, hiking, shopping, attending festivals, visiting temples, exploring the island’s archaeological remains, or systematically visiting Bali’s arts and crafts centers. On cultural tours, if silverware, woodcarving, and souvenir shops aren’t your interest, don’t let the guide stop in too many. These stops serve only to fatten the pockets of the guides and drivers.

Tour agencies lining the streets and lanes of Kuta, Legian, Candidasa, Ubud, and Lovina offer fixed-departure tours for a set price, usually for six to 12 people. The Denpasar and each regency government tourist office as well as the tour desks at larger hotels are always ready to advise you about specialized tours.

The success of a tour depends largely on the experience and knowledge of the guide leading it. Tours are conducted by English-speaking guides unless tour participants request guides speaking other foreign languages (French, German, Japanese, and Chinese). Tours often start from the agency’s head office, though many also pick up participants at their hotels, homestays, or in front of well-known landmarks.

The price depends primarily on the type of transport used, the number of people in your group, and the length of your tour. Most only run if there are at least four people, so if one operator can’t run the tour you want when you want it, just check out the next place. Most take in sights along the way and the tour lasts all day. Tour participants may alter/modify the tour by pitching in and paying extra. For example, from Penelokan down to the crater floor costs an extra Rp5000 per person on the Kintamani Volcano Tour.

Independent Tour Guides
There are two kinds of guides. Freelance, unofficial guides or touts, pushing tourist-oriented businesses and hanging around Bali’s airport, the bus/bemo stations, and ferry terminals. Though they can be quite forward and persistent at times, you don’t necessarily have to be paranoid about these men or boys who volunteer their services. They could actually save you a lot of trouble, footwork, and even money if you learn how to work with them and if you are able to sense the good ones from the bad.

Be open. Guides could lead you to a new accommodation that’s really eager to please, may offer discounts to a hotel that wants to attract new clientele, or could help you get transport or performance tickets. Their fee, tacked to the base price-if not ridiculously high-might be worth it.

The same thing goes for self-appointed, multilingual guides who attach themselves to you at the base of volcanoes and at entrances to temples and museums. These contacts could lead to fresh insights and even exciting experiences. Local guides are a part of the color of a new place. These characters seem to have friends everywhere, might work for a tour company on the side, and have an uncle who will sell you wayang puppets for a special price.

Then there are the officially sanctioned guides who supposedly have been professionally trained. These 300 “registered” guides, belonging to the Bali Guide Association, speak English, Japanese, German, French, or Mandarin in addition to Indonesian and their own regional tongue. Their services cost more than volunteer guides do. You’ll meet one of these certified guides if you join a local tour. The most talented know the best stopovers for snacks or modern amenities, can take you to places seldom visited, explain landmarks, put you in touch with the local people.

But the government regulation as to who can qualify as a registered guide is highly restrictive. Only people with money can afford to register, and thus they jack up the prices to cover their official fees. Moreover, not all these registered guides get high marks. Some demand fees from art shops and restaurants for delivering tourists; others pocket expenses that were promised as part of your tour price.

Sometimes it’s better to employ a nonprofessional, family-style guide, particularly if you’re coming for only 10 days or so, don’t want to be in a group tour cocoon, and would like to expedite matters so as not to have to find out everything on your own without getting ripped off. The price freelancers charge often winds up being cheaper than most tour agencies. A good place to start inquiring about a personalized guide is with your homestay or hotel owner.

One of Bali’s best-known guides is also one of its best dancers. Cokorda Istri Ratih Iryani (Jl. Nangka 93, Denpasar, tel. 62361-91245) exemplifies a grassroots guide service. After getting input from you, she’ll give you an overview of what you might like to do and how you might like to go about doing it. She’ll tell you which performances to avoid and which to see; she’ll arrange for a car and, if necessary, a driver who speaks Japanese. Ratih can get you discounts at hotels, arrange overnight trips, and introduce you to highly regarded dancers, healers, and sculptors.

Local Tour Operators
There are pages of travel/tour operators listed in the most current Bali phone book under Travel Bureaus. The most ubiquitous agency-the traveler’s agency-is Perama Tourist Service, Jl. Legian Kuta (tel. 62361-751.551/-751.875/-751.170, fax 62361-751.170) with offices in Ubud, Candidasa, Padangbai, Lovina, Kintamani, Bedugul, and Sanur. Get ahold of their latest brochure listing all their addresses and phone numbers. Perama now have large, new coaches heading for all parts of Bali. In Ubud, pick-up is at major hotels and locations, especially along Monkey Forest Road. Perama also offers land-sea adventures and cultural tours to Lombok and beyond using modified Bugis pinisi schooners.

Established in 1988 by an experienced Balinese group, Nagasari Tours and Travel (#102 Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur, Bali 80227, tel. 62361-288.096/879, fax 62361-289.285/031, e-mail nagasari@dps.mega.net.id) provides services, in Bali and throughout Indonesia, ranging from economy itineraries to deluxe packages, but always with the same emphasis on originality and efficiency. For special-interest groups of for individual travelers, Nagasari can arrange for natural history, cultural, spiritual, or just plain relaxing vacations. Rates are competitive and service is excellent.

Established in 1984, experienced and professional Nusa Dua Bali Tours and Travel, Jl. Bypass, 300 B, Box 3419, Denpasar 80034, tel. 62361-51.223, fax 52-779, organizes both packaged programs and first-class tours. The company features competitive rates, excellent service, and a consistently high standard of accommodations and guides. Nusa Dua has cut its teeth in the business by catering to demanding and by discriminating European clients.

Natrabu has more than 34 years of experience in leading tours. Its U.S. headquarters can be reached at (800) 628-7228 (U.S. and Canada), fax (415) 362-0531. Award-winning Vayatours Inc., tel. (800) 999-8292 (U.S. and Canada), fax (213) 487-0838, one of Indonesia’s largest tour companies, staffs a sales office in North America at 6420 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 420, Los Angeles, CA 90048, tel. (213) 655-3851.

A reliable operator is PT Bali Avia Tour & Travel Ltd., P.O. Box 1094, Jl. Ngurah Rai 4X, Airport, Tuban, Denpasar – Bali 80361 (tel. 62361-751.257/-755.840/-752.282, fax 62361-752.282/-75.333. They offer the “Sasak Traditional Tour,” which takes in the sights and culture of the Sasaks of Lombok, as well as tours to Borobudur, Yogya, Torajaland, and Mt. Bromo in East Java.

A reliable operator is PT Bali Avia Tour & Travel Ltd., P.O. Box 1094, Jl. Ngurah Rai 4X, Airport, Tuban, Denpasar – Bali 80361 (tel. 62361-751.257/-755.840/-752.282, fax 62361-752.282/-75.333. They offer the “Sasak Traditional Tour,” which takes in the sights and culture of the Sasaks of Lombok, as well as tours to Borobudur, Yogya, Torajaland, and Mt. Bromo in East Java.

Tunas Indonesia Tours & Travel, Jl. D. Tamblingan 107, Sanur (tel. 0361-288450 or 288581) and in the Hotel Bali Beach in Sanur (tel. 0361-288056), specialize in wildlife and adventure tours to Komodo, Baluran (East Java), Kalimantan. They also do daily air-conditioned coach tours of Bali.

Grand Komodo, Jl. Bypass, Sanur, Bali (tel. 0361-287166, fax 287165), sells three and four-day packages to Sumbawa and Komodo with scheduled departures. Also ask them about other adventure packages to Irian Jaya (Baliem Valley), Flores (Gunung Kelimutu), and Lombok (climbing Gunung Rinjani). Tours start at about US$275, including accommodations with all meals, transfers, and English-speaking guide. Price doesn’t include airfare and laundry.

Other reputable, locally based companies: PT Motive Bali Tours & Travel, Jl. Bypass 21, Sanur (tel. 0361-289018 or 286248, fax 289018); PT Gloria Bali Jaya Tours, Jl. Raya Krobokan (tel. 0361-730272 or 730273, fax 730273); Nagasari Tours & Travel, Jl. D. Tamblingan 102, Sanur (tel. 0361-288096, fax 289285); Media Tour, Jl. Kartika, P.O. Box 1008, Tuban (tel. 0361-753556, fax 753555). Catering to demanding Europeans, the most efficient Bali-based operator I ever worked with is PT Nusa Dua Bali Tours & Travel, Jl. Bypass 300 B, P.O. Box 419, Denpasar 80001, tel. (0361) 751223, fax 752779.

Elderhostel Indonesia is an organization serving the travel needs of mature adults. It leads various three-week study tours in Java, Bali, and Sulawesi. The emphasis varies depending on the location, but academics are always stressed. Contact address in Bali is Agung Dewaputra, Elderhostel Indonesia, Puri Kapal, Peliatan, Ubud (tel. 0361-975180, fax 975162).

Another educational outing is the “Bali Archaeological Tour” offered by Santa Bali Tours & Travel, Grand Bali Beach Hotel, Sanur (tel. 0361-287628 or 288057, fax 236508), which takes in sites including Pura Durga Kutri, the Royal Temple of Bedulu Kingdom, Gunung Kawi, and Pejeng, which departs at 0830 and returns at 1630, for US$37.50 (lunch included).

The art lover, dancer, and spirit quester should get in touch with Bali Living Arts, 8600 East Alameda No. 17106, Denver, CO 80231, which caters to such specialized clientele that the result is a smaller, more focused, and more spontaneous group experience. You get 18 days of yoga on secluded atoll beaches, study of Balinese culture and language, participation in a full moon ceremony, an inner-island cruise, snorkeling, hiking, and relaxation. Trip leader is Marya Mann, gypsy yogini, Ph.D. artist, dream-weaver, and world dancer. Call (303) 355-3278 or (800) 641-Bali, or fax (303) 757-8287.

Overseas-Based Tour Operators
The Big Three Indonesian companies represented in North America are: PT Garuda Orient Holidays (tel. 800-665-2254 in the U.S. and Canada, fax 604-736-7154), the tour arm of the Indonesian national carrier Garuda Indonesian Airlines; Natrabu (tel. 800-628-7228 in the U.S. and Canada, fax 415-362-0531), an Indonesian travel agency with more than 33 years experience; and Vayatour (tel. 800-999-8292 in the U.S. and Canada, fax 213-487-0838), one of Indonesia’s largest tour companies. All sell tour and accommodation packages on Bali. Call the Indonesian Tourist Promotion Office (tel. 213-387-2078, fax 380-4876) in Los Angeles for a complete list.

Since they believe that Bali is too commercialized, Danu Enterprises is taking their clients to more and more out of the way places. The founders, American Judy Slattum and Balinese I Made Surya, have conducted high quality, personalized tours since 1980. The instructor of their Yoga tour to Bali, Ann Barros, teaches the lyengar tradition. Their new “Healing Arts” tour to Bali has been especially popular, and their “Discover the Back Roads” of Bali is designed for trekkers and water-sport enthusiasts. This trip includes in-depth seminars in Balinese history, language, culture, and religion with Made, the founder of Bali’s mountain climbing club. The price US$2850 includes the 14-day tour, roundtrip air on Singapore Airlines, two meals a day, accommodations in small, locally owned bungalows, and five days in Bali’s only Hindu ashram. For more details, contact Danu at P.O. Box 156, Capitola, CA 95010 or call/fax (408) 476-0543. A first-class outfit. Their office in Bali is at Jl. Kepundung, Gang XII No. 1, Denpasar 80231.

Backroads (1516 5th St., Suite PR, Berkeley, CA 94710-1740, tel. 800-462-2848 in the U.S. or 510-527-1555) sells a nine-day walking vacation that takes in Lake Bratan, the lower flanks of Gunung Agung, a rafting expedition on the Ayung River, performances, open-air markets, local arts and craft shops, swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, first-class meals and accommodations, and the services of highly trained professional guides. Backroads also offers cyclists two to 17 day excursions with daily mileage options, maps, catered meals, directions, and van support (see “Bicycling,” under “Getting Around”).

Naropa Institute (2130 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder, CO 80302, tel. 303-444-0202), America’s only Buddhist university, sponsors a Study Abroad program in Bali which runs from mid-January to mid-March, combining classes in meditation, Balinese gamelan and the Indonesian language, discussion groups on Bali’s arts and culture, field trips, attendance at performances and ceremonies, and independent research projects. A 50-minute video on the US$3800 program is available.

Passport to Indonesia Inc., 2731 Tucker Lane, Los Alamitos, CA 90720, tel. (800) 303-9646, offers personalized tours for independent travelers as well as walking and cultural tours of Bali. Archaeological Tours, 271 Madison Ave., Ste. 904, New York, NY 10016, tel. (212) 986-3054, specializes in high-end cultural and educational tours.

In Britain, Bales, Bales House, Junction Rd., Dorking, Surrey RH4 3HB, tel. 01306-885991, sells tours to Bali from around £1000. Also check out Earthwatch Europe, Belsyre Ct., 57 Woodstock Rd., Oxford OX2 6Hu, tel. 01865-311600, which hosts ethnological tours of south-central Bali. Hayes & Jarvis, Hayes House, 152 King St., London W6 OQU, tel. 0181-746-5050, gives holiday tours to Bali. Thomas Cook Holidays, P.O. Box 36, Thorpe Wood, Peterborough PE3 6SB, tel. 01733-332255, offers hotel-based holiday tours to south Bali and the Ubud area.

Warning
Most operators are reliable, but watch the budget-priced, fly-by-night outfits. They will tell you anything: that you’ll get all your cold drinks free, that all entrance fees are included, and even promise you lunch-but then you’ll end up paying for everything!

Exploiting your ignorance of the island’s upcountry attractions, drivers or guides may try to pocket all these expenses and not report it to their superiors. For example, your tour leader might not offer to take you inside Klungkung’s Kerta Gosa, telling you that the beautiful detailed paintings can be appreciated from the outside. Not so.

These outfits could also keep you waiting until about 1500 or 1430 before they take time to stop for lunch; then they’ll take you into a tourist restaurant where you have to pay Rp7500 for a simple nasi goreng. Just tell them that you want to go to a warung instead, and take all your friends with you! Don’t forget that you are the clients; they should respond to what you want from your tour. You can bargain with the guide and driver to modify the tour, pay extra (which they can pocket) to take you way out of the way. Be creative.

Sample Local Tours
Full-day excursions (seven to 10 hours) range from Rp25,000 to Rp55,000. The most expensive are offered by international starred hotel establishments which charge up to Rp200,000 per day, with prices always in U.S. dollars. Stick to tours recommended by your friends and people you trust.

Look for the unusual. Trips to the south emphasize the shoreline and beachlife, trips to the center the historic classical monuments, trips to the north vault the volcanic mountain range to the coast of north Bali, and trips to the east and west tend to cover the more isolated parts of the island. Often a kris, fire, or tourist trance dance in Batubulan or Bona is thrown in, and the bus could stop at one too many temples on the way-unless you request otherwise. You can get templed-out real fast after your third or so temple, no matter how unique or beautiful it is.

Here are some samples of typical day tours that can easily be arranged by most hotels and travel agents. The Volcano Tour, in one form or the other, passes through Batubulan, Celuk, Batuan, Mas, Ubud, Bedulu, Tampaksiring, and Penelokan to Kintamani. For those who are staying for just a short while, this one is a good introduction to the natural beauty of the island, and you’ll be exposed to a wide range of arts and crafts. One-day tours out of Ubud, for example, run Rp15,000-25,000 per person.

The Besakih Tour passes through Batubulan and Celuk, then usually continues east to Klungkung. From here the tour heads north through Bukit Jambul to Besakih. The Tanah Lot Tour follows the main road to the northwest from Denpasar, then branches off at Kediri through the rural countryside to reach the coast opposite the small islet on which the temple of Tanah Lot is situated. The Bedugul Tour heads northwest from Denpasar to the regional capital of Tabanan, then passes through rising rice country to the lakeside resort of Bedugul. The City Tour takes in the Art Center, The Bali Museum, and Denpasar market.

Also offered are two-night, three-day budget group tours in the Rp250,000 range. The first day you visit Celuk, Mas, Ubud, Bedulu, Klungkung, Kusamba, Tenganan, Bukit Jambul, Besakih, Bangli, Penelokan. The second day Kintamani, Penulisan, Kumbutambahan, Air Sanih, Singaraja, Lovina Beach. The third day Gitgit, Bedugul, Mengwi, Tanah Lot, Sangeh, then return to your hotel. Book three days in advance. Donations and accommodations not included in the price. A group can easily design other tours to anyplace in Bali.

Bali By Air
Something different and extravagant, this tour offers stunning views over rice fields, rivers, seaweed farms, coastline, jungle, and volcanoes poking through halos of white clouds. Bali Avia uses a new Bell 206B Jet Ranger helicopter to take two to four passengers on an aerial tour of Ubud, Bangli, Gunung Agung, Bali’s eastern coast, Lake Bratan, Bedugul, Tanah Lot, Kuta, Besakih Temple, and Gunung Batur. Departures are from the helipad of Hotel Bali Beach at 0930 and 1030 daily (minimum two passengers). Cost is US$174 or US$375 for a half-hour flight. Call Bali Avia (tel. 0361-751257 or 752282) or Motive Bali (tel. 0361-89435, fax 89435). Other helicopters used are Bell 412, Bell 212, BO 105, Piper Navajo, and Skyvans. Great photo ops. Free pick up and drop off.

Wakalouka Land Cruises, Jl. Imam Bonjol 335 X (tel. 0361-227085 or 227067, fax 227067 or 426972), offers an unusual “Journey to the Secret Soul of Bali” which takes participants by Land Rover through grassy tracks and terraced rice fields to see a traditional gubuk farmhouse made of mud bricks, learn about fragrant spices, visit a mineral hot springs and an ancient quarry, and relax with a delicious lunch at the Wakalouka Rainforest Camp deep in a forest of giant bamboo. You are picked up at 0800 by Land Rover and returned to your hotel in an a/c minibus at around 1600. The price of US$83 includes all transfers, lunch, soft drinks, wine, and beer.

Bali By Sea
Cruises the trouble with cruises is that passengers are able to stop for only three or four hours at some ports. The luxury and service, however, are undeniable. Swan Hellenic, 77 New Oxford St., London WC1A 1PP, tel. 0171-800-2300, organizes upmarket cruises to Bali. Orient Lines 38 Park St., London W1Y 3PF, tel. 0171-409-2500, calls at eastern Bali’s port of Padangbai.

Royal Cruise Line offers the “Golden Odyssey,” departing Bangkok for Semarang, Yogyakarta, and Bali on its way to Hong Kong. Pearl Cruises offers “Bangkok, Bali and Beyond,” with an itinerary including Jakarta, Semarang, and Bali. Royal Viking offers the “Jewels of the Orient” cruise aboard the Royal Viking Star, which departs Singapore and Bangkok for Bali. The Sea Goddess also calls on several Indonesian ports.

After the style of the defunct Lindblad Explorer, P & O’s four luxury catamaran ships ply regularly between Lombok, Komodo, Sumba, and Flores. Their four-star Bali Sea Dancer boasts first-class facilities and eminently qualified lecturers. Based in Bali, she does a three-day cruise to Badas, Sumbawa, and then on to Komodo National Park before returning to Bali. Small by cruise ship standards, they carry only 150 passengers housed in compact, a/c cabins. Each stop includes day trips, cultural tours, shopping opportunities, and a chance to explore marinelife with a dive master. The night’s five-course dinners, with an excellent and reasonably priced wine list, are accompanied by live music, dancing, and an occasional show. The ship has a well-stocked lounge bar, swimming pool, library, gym, and a hospital. For the three-day cruise, prices start at US$450 per person. For details, contact P & O Spice Island Cruises, Jl. Padang Galak 25, Sanur, Denpasar (tel. 0361-286283, fax 286284), or check with a travel agent.

PT Wisata Tirta Baruna, Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 300 B, P.O. Box 419, Denpasar 80001, Bali (tel. 0361-53820 or 51223, fax 53809 or 52779), sails to Indonesia’s eastern islands from the port of Benoa. The first port of call are the Gilis off western Lombok, then Sumbawa Besar, Bima, Sabolan Island (West Flores), Komodo, and Sumba from where passengers fly back to Bali. Passengers who want to participate in the westward cruise (same content as above, but in the opposite direction from Sumba to Bali) must fly from Bali to Sumba to join the cruise. Cost is US$1498 d on A deck, US$1348 d on C deck. Price includes all meals, shore excursions, ground transfers, and airfare, but excludes beverages, alcohol, laundry, telephone calls, tips, and 15% service and tax. They have sales counters in many of southern Bali’s most exclusive hotels; their cruises are approximately one-third the price of P & O-owned Spice Island Cruises.

A Dutch company outfits magnificent Indonesian pinisi, which have not changed designs since the 18th century to modern safety specifications. Their eight-day cruise takes in Flores, Sumbawa, Komodo, Lombok, and Bali. Longer tours of two and a half weeks to a month follow Russel’s footsteps and sail the whole length of Sulawesi, all of Maluku, Irian Jaya-truly an oceangoing company. The scenery is excellent, and the traditional Indonesian food prepared by an Indonesian chef is better quality than at most Indonesian restaurants and warung. Contact Sea Trek, Keizersgracht 463, 1017 DK, Amsterdam (tel. 31-20-62-72078, fax 31-20-42-20153), or PT Oceana Tirta Wisata, Jl. Bypass 78 XX, Sanur 80228, Bali (tel. 0361-288892, fax 288652).

Boat Tours
The oldest continually operating ship in the world-older than the Statue of Liberty-is the 115-year-old gaff-rigged ketch Golden Hawk that takes passengers daily to Nusa Lembongan. She carries eight sails and is 63 meters long. Hotel pickup, food and drink, snorkel gear, and glass-bottom boat trips are included for US$85 price. Children half-price. Reserve tickets by calling Tour Devco, tel. (0361) 231591 or 231592, book through your hotel, or direct to Golden Hawk Cruises, Jl. Danau Poso 20 A, Sanur, Bali (tel./fax 0361-287431).

Another tall ship, the 115-meter-long 1902 Dutch clipper Adelaar, sleeps 18 passengers and a crew of five. When not away on charter, it operates day cruises to Nusa Lembongan for US$77 and US$55 (budget cruise, alcoholic drinks not included). For information, phone Enno Schulze at (0361) 261190.

All the following boats can be arranged through Tour Devco (tel. 0361-231591 or 231592): Helsal III, a legendary racing yacht that at one time held every racing record on Australia’s east coast, gives day tours for up to 15 guests. For US$66, your day includes a trip to Nusa Lembongan, pick up and return transport, fresh buffet lunch, boat transfers to island, complimentary teas, cocktails, and Aqua, snorkeling and sailing tuition, toilet and shower facilities. The 176-meter-long, powerful Island Explorer gives leisurely day tours. On the way, try your hand at game fishing. Famous for its flame-grilled barbecue with crisp salads and fresh tropical fruit. Ocean Lady II offers day (US$69) and overnight (US$165 per person) tours to Nusa Lembongan. This 47-foot sloop sails from Benoa Harbor at 0900, returns at 1700. Price includes all food and drink, coral viewing, and island exploring. Call (0361) 287739. The Anne Judith II, a 65-foot timber ketch, comfortable and roomy, offers two and three-day tours. The Kriez An Ael, a 20-meter French-built yacht, offers three- and five-day itinerary for six to seven guests in four cabins.

The Simone III is a specialized Blackwatch game-fishing boat with state-of-the-art electronics and a speed of up to 25 knots. Range of heavy and light fishing tackle for fishing tuna, wahoo, mahi-mahi, mackerel, and marlin. Day cruises start at US$660, maximum six persons. Call Camar Yacht Charter, tel. (0361) 231591, 231592, or 287446, fax 231592 or 287446.

Catamaran Tours
Most cruises make the passage over to Nusa Lembongan, an island 24 km to the southeast of Bali, which takes two-and-a-half hours. The vessels anchor in a quiet bay. Explore inland, visit local villages and seaweed farms, swim and snorkel, sunbathe and beachcomb. The cruise almost always includes hot buffet lunch and ice cold drinks. At around 1500, the boat sails back to Bali into a tropical sunset, arriving in Benoa at 1700 or 1730 for free transport back to your hotel.

The Wakalouka is a 23-meter luxury catamaran, which sails from Benoa Harbor every morning at 0900 for a two-hour cruise. At the exclusive Waka Nusa Resort, enjoy a sumptuous barbecue buffet lunch with many Balinese specialties, view the amazing coral formations offshore from the glass-bottomed boat or while snorkeling, swim in the floating pool, play volleyball and deck games, visit the aviary, or just laze and enjoy the sun and fresh air. Return at sunset (1800). Cost (including hotel transfers, unlimited soft drinks) US$70, children five to 15 half-price. Contact PT Tour Devco, tel. (0361) 231591 or 231592.

Quicksilver, a modern, spacious catamaran with three air-conditioned decks for over 300 people, sails daily to Nusa Penida. Popular with Asian groups. International buffet lunch, ride on submersible coral viewer, and excursions to village, seaweed farm, etc. on Nusa Lembongan, 25 km from Benoa Harbor. All for US$85 per person. Reserve a place by calling (0361) 771997 or 771977.

Moggy is a sailing catamaran with a relaxed atmosphere that sleeps eight. Day and extended charter. Call Surf Travel Company or B.B.S. at (0361) 261051 or 261052. Use the same number to charter the Mimpi Manis, a traditional Indonesian pinisi that cruises to Nusa Lembongan.

Bali Hai II is a 34-meter luxury catamaran for 300 people, featuring several decks, air-conditioned interior, lavish international buffet luncheon, two bars. Day tours (starting at 0930) to Nusa Lembongan, rides in semi-submersible coral viewer, snorkeling instruction from a moored pontoon (all equipment provided), a ride on a glass-bottom boat, unlimited water sausage rides, and shore excursions-all for US$75. An introductory scuba diving course ($40) is optional. Returns at 1600.

Children under 15 half-fare. The sunset dinner cruise, departing at 1800 (two and a half hours) with disco, laser disk karaoke, Batak singers, is US$35. Book through a travel agent or call (0361) 234331, fax 234334.

Hobie Cat Tours
Run by two Frenchmen, Aloha Sailing Tours (tel. 0361-701888, ext. 7605), offers a different kind of sailing experience for adventurers who enjoy sailing, surfing, and fishing from a small fleet of Hobie Cats. The seven-day tours take place off the coast of North Bali, an area of beautiful bays and reefs, untouched beaches, hot springs, temples, good fishing spots, consistent wind conditions. The price of US$600 includes sailing an average of six hours each day, a stop at a different losmen each night, food and refreshments, and an assistant boat to keep an eye on everyone.

Chartered Yachts from Bali
Indonesia maintains one of the largest fleets of schooners in the world. Itineraries in the archipelago are only limited by your time, imagination, and money. The charter companies on Bali will pick you up at your hotel for an early morning departure from Benoa Port. The crews prepare delicious meals of fresh seafood, and amenities include private cabins with a/c, stereo, snorkeling gear, fishing tackle, hot showers, and shaded decks. Yachts are fully equipped to meet international safety standards, and they employ fully licensed, usually Western-trained captains and Indonesian pilots.

Australian-owned Rasa Yachts (tel. 0361-88756), the largest and longest established yacht charter business in Bali, operates three big, safe, luxury yachts on day trips or extended cruises. Maximum 12 passengers per yacht at US$79 per person per day, all-inclusive.

A sturdy, 24-ton, 14-meter-long steel-hulled sailing yacht, the Wyeema, can be chartered for safe and comfortable sailing adventures. Marvel at the unpeopled islands, deserted beaches, and magnificent diving on reefs discovered on previous sailing safaris by Captain Bruce Collins. Their specialty is a seven-day, six-night package to Komodo (Bali, Komodo, Sape, Bima, and then a flight back to Bali). This package may be extended to 12 days and 11 nights. Book at Jul. Pemamoran 12, Taman Sari, Sanur (tel. 0361-287593).

The Sirius, a 20-meter-long pleasure schooner built in 1935, fully restored and renovated with every modern convenience, is also available for extended charter throughout the Indonesian archipelago. Capacity is eight people. To reserve, call (0361) 262824.

What You Can See and Do

Most Important Tours
Bali’s natural attractions include miles of sandy beaches (many are well-known amongst surfers), picturesque rice terraces, towering active volcanoes over 3,000 meters (10,000 ft.) high, fast flowing rivers, deep ravines, pristine crater lakes, sacred caves, and lush tropical forests full of exotic wildlife.

The island’s rich cultural heritage is visible everywhere – in over 20,000 temples and palaces, in many colorful festivals and ceremonies (including tooth filings and cremations), in drama, music, and dance. You can experience Bali on many different excursions and guided tours by coach or private car, by boat or airplane. Most full day tours (about 8 to 10 hours) cost about US$30 to US$40 per person, half day tours US$20 to US$25. These prices include a multi-lingual guide and transport in an air-conditioned private car, all entrance fees, but no meals. Which guide and driver you choose can make or break your day: be warned that those who offer very low prices tend to waste your time by showing you hardly any more than those shops which pay them a commission on your purchases.

Kintamani Volcano Tour
The first stop is often in the village of Batubulan to watch a performance of the ‘Barong’ and ‘Kris Dance’. Afterwards you visit the villages of Celuk (silver jewelry) and Mas (woodcarving) to see Balinese artisans at work. Ubud, Bali’s cultural center, has grown to a busy town with numerous art galleries and shops. A scenic drive over small roads overlooking beautiful rice terraces brings you to the mountain village of Kintamani (about 5,000 feet above the sea) which offers spectacular views of Lake Batur and the volcano. You can cross the Crater Lake below the still active Mount Batur and visit the “Bali Aga” village of Trunyan.

Return through traditional villages with stops in Tampaksiring to visit the temple of Tirta Empul, and to visit the Elephant Cave “Goa Gajah”, a hermitage from the 11th century used by both Buddhists and Hindus.

The “Mother Temple” and East Bali
Drive to Besakih through various villages visiting on the way a weaving factory, see the famous painted ceiling at the old “Palace of Justice” in Klungkung, and visit the school of painting in Kamasan. The “Mother Temple” in Besakih is Bali’s most holy and Indonesia’s biggest Hindu temple. It was built in the 11th century in an altitude of 1,000 meters (3,000 feet) on the slopes of Mount Agung. You pass picturesque rice terraces on the way to the walled “Bali Aga” village of Tenganan, and continue to Candi Dasa on the East Coast. On the way back it’s recommended to stop at the famous Bat Cave “Goa Lawah” with thousands of bats hanging from the walls.

Bedugul
After a stop in Sangeh to visit its holy forest inhabited by wild monkeys, drive up into the mountains to Lake Bratan (1,200 meters above sea level) and the picturesque water temple Ulun Danu. Visit the busy flower, fruit and spice market in Candikuning where most of Bali’s vegetables come from. Drive back through small country roads, villages and rice fields, with a stop in an artisan village specializing in gold threaded textiles (Ikat) worn during important ceremonies.

North Bali
Drive the scenic road via Pupuan through the mountains to Bali’s North coast. You’ll enjoy beautiful views of picturesque rice terraces, and large plantations growing vanilla, chocolate, coffee, cloves, and even wine grapes. Near the village of Banjar is a popular hot spring where you can take a bath in the natural pond. After a lunch on the black beach in Lovina you pass the old capital of Singaraja on the way to Git Git, famous for its multi-tier waterfall. Return over back roads to see the unspoiled Bali. (This tour can be combined with the visit to Bedugul.)

Monkey Forest & Tanah Lot
Visit of the royal Taman Ayun temple in Mengwi (built in 1624), the holy monkey forest near Sangeh, and famous Tanah Lot. This picturesque temple was built in the 16th century on a huge rock 100 yards off Bali’s West Coast and is surrounded by the sea during high tides. Spectacular sight, however, spoiled by thousands of tourists visiting every day during sunset. To avoid these, enjoy the view from the lobby of the nearby Le Meridien Nirvana Resort.

Handicraft Villages & Ubud
Visit the artisan villages of Batubulan (stone carving), Celuk (silver & gold jewelry), Mas (woodcarving), and Pengosekan (painting). Stop at the “Art Market” in Sukawati to bargain for all kinds of handicrafts and textiles. The fast growing town of Ubud is Bali’s cultural center where you find numerous art galleries and shops offering paintings, woodcarvings, textiles, and all kinds of souvenirs. Don’t miss the MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN in the center of Ubud, the NEKA MUSEUM in Campuhan, the NEKA GALLERY in Ubud, the AGUNG RAI GALLERY in Peliatan, and the AGUNG RAI MUSEUM in Pengosekan to see the difference between creative art and more commercial products. Visit also ANTONIO BLANCO at his residence and studio, and the BLUE MOON STUDIO and GALLERY, which were founded in 1994 with an emphasis on exhibiting contemporary artists. The LOTUS CAFE has become kind of an institution, and MURNIE’S as well as the BRIDGE CAFE offer tasty snacks and full meals in very pleasant surroundings and at reasonable prices.

The various dance and Wayang Kulit performances (see below) in Ubud and in nearby villages are worth spending the early evening there.

Bali by Air
After take-off from Bali’s airport you enjoy scenic views of Jimbaran bay and Kuta beach and head for the famous Tanah Lot temple which you circle in an altitude of only 200 meters. Next destination is the island of Lombok where you circle the three Gili islands continuing over beautiful lush valleys with dazzling waterfalls. Senggigi, the major tourist spot on the island, appears next, followed by the capital city of Mataram and Kuta on the southern shore of Lombok.

The flight continues over Nusa Penida and Nusa Lembongan giving you a bird’s eye view of colorful corals and idyllic beaches. After the return to Bali you’ll be ascending slowly over green rice paddies towards Kintamani offering views of the Crater Lake and volcano, and descending towards Singaraja on the north coast of Bali. On the way back you pass Nusa Dua and the Ulu Watu temple before landing. This 2-hour flight costs US$990 for up to 6 persons and includes the transfers from and to your hotel. For reservations and details on private air charters please call the HBF/PVL Service Center at 62361-703.060.

Balinese Dance Performance
Most performances are held in the evenings, however, you can also see some Barong Dance performances in the morning.

If you prefer to watch one of these Balinese dances performances in a hotel after a sumptuous dinner buffet, the OBEROI is recommended because of the beautiful beachfront setting. More spectacular even are the Cave Nights at the BALI CLIFF hotel: guests enjoy an excellent dinner buffet sitting in a large natural cave slightly above sea level and can watch a performance of the Kecak Dance on the beach below. At US$40 & 21% per person not cheap but well worth it.

Barong Dance: A contest between the opposing forces of chaos and destruction (“Rangda”) and order (the “Barong”). Performances in Suwung and Kesiman (suburbs of Denpasar), and in Batubulan daily from 9:00 or 9:30 a.m.; in Banjar Abasan, Singapadu, daily from 9:30 a.m., and at Puri Saren in Ubud, Friday from 6:30 p.m.

Legong Dance: Highly stylized, extremely difficult dance performed by young girls. Choreographed to the finest details and no improvisation allowed. Performances at the Peliatan Stage, Friday from 6:30 p.m., at Pura Dalem, Puri Peliatan, Saturday from 6:30 p.m., at Pura Peliatan in Ubud, Sunday from 7:30 p.m., at Puri Saren, Ubud, Monday from 7:30 p.m., and in Banjar Tegal, Kuta, Saturday and Tuesday from 8:00 p.m.

Kecak Dance: A ritual dance created in the early 1930′s for the movie “Island of the Demons” by the German painter and intellectual Walter Spiess who combined the chorus of the “Sanghyang” trance dance with a story from the “Ramayana” legend. Very impressive with its circular chorus of sometimes over 100 bare chested male singers. Performances are held at the Arts Center, Denpasar, daily from 6:30 p.m., also in Banjar Buni, Kuta, Sunday from 8 p.m., and in Banjar Tegal, Ubud, Sunday from 6:00 p.m.

Kecak & Fire Dance: The Fire Dance is an exorcist dance against spirit possession. Girls in trance dance barefoot among glowing coals. Performances in Bona Kangin, Gianyar, Friday. Monday and Wednesday from 6:30 p.m. In Bonasari, Gianyar, Friday, Monday and Wednesday from 7:00 p.m., and in Batubulan, daily from 6:30 p.m.

Ramayana Dance: Occasional performances in Banjar Buni, Kuta. If you are seriously interested in Balinese music and dance, you should contact the YAYASAN POLOS SENI (Foundation for Pure Art) in Peliatan near Ubud. They offer music and dance lessons at reasonable prices (see under “Balinese Music & Dance Classes” further down).

Wayang Kulit and Other Performances
In the Indonesian shadow puppet play beautifully painted and gilded leather puppets are used although only the shadows are visible to the audience. The stories come from the spirit world and are full of symbolism and myth. A highly skilled puppeteer controls hundreds of puppets, speaks with a different voice for each character, and controls the musicians. Plays go on for several hours. Performances can be seen in Banjar Buni, Kuta, every Monday and Thursday from 8:00 p.m., and at Oka Kartini, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud, on Saturdays from 8:00 p.m.

For exhibitions and other events such as high-tech Wayang Kulit performances in Ubud, concerts, Western theatre performances, bull racing in Tabanan, etc. as well as the daily movie programs, please see the daily “Bali Post” newspaper and the Friday edition of the English language “Jakarta Post” for details.

Sports Activities
Swimming, snorkeling, banana boat rides, water ski, parasailing, etc. are arranged by most hotels and at the Beluga Marina in Tanjung Benoa. There are also small sailboats, catamarans, and boards for wind surfing for rent along Jimbaran Beach. The best surfing spots are near Ulu Watu (not for beginners) and along Bali’s West coast North of Canggu; the best time is from March to September.

You can also buy a reasonably priced day-guest ticket (about US$25 per person) and enjoy all sports facilities at Nusa Dua’s CLUB MED until 17:00 in the afternoon. They offer kayaking, wind surfing, snorkeling, and many other sports activities such as water aerobics, archery, tennis, and Ping-Pong tournaments, beach volleyball, bocci ball lessons, and a circus school for adults.

The day-guest ticket includes a lunch buffet with a huge choice of Western, Indonesian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean dishes and unlimited wine, beer and soft drinks.

A large free-form swimming pool with a life band playing during the afternoon on the Center Island is the main attraction of the new HARD ROCK BEACH CLUB in Kuta. There is a poolside restaurant for various snacks, a pool bar serving exotic drinks, and you can even rent your private poolside “Cabana” if you wish to draw the curtains for some privacy. Pool use is 50,000 Rupiah per day for non-resident guests, and for the “Cabana” they charge 100,000 Rupiah per day.

Scuba Diving
A number of PADI certified companies offer diving tours (no spear fishing in Bali) with experienced guides and equipment from one day to several days. The best sites (some with shipwrecks) are along Bali’s East cost and in the Northwest around Menjangan Island near Gilimanuk (ferry to Java). About US$40 to US$90 (depending on the destination) per person for one-day tours; US$350-US$400 plus extra costs or US$450 including everything for four day courses including your PADI certificate.

Game Fishing
A number of companies offer yachts and fishing boats with guides for charter. The catch includes Tuna, Wahoo, Mai-Mai, Mackerel, or Marlin – and Snapper, Cod and Coral Trout to be caught reef fishing should you so desire. From US$40 per hour for a small boat and US$660 per day for a state-of-the-art BLACK WATCH game fishing vessel with experienced crew, full insurance, and all electronics and safety gear. For bookings and charter information call 703-060.

Day Cruises
There are daily cruises to nearby Nusa Penida and Nusa Lembongan islands off the southeast coast of Bali. Guests spend the day either on the beach or a floating pontoon and you can go snorkeling, scuba diving, take Banana Boat rides, or view the underwater world from a semi-submersible vessel. You can choose between modern, air-conditioned motor cruisers accommodating 100 and more guests and a number of smaller sailing boats. Departure is usually around 9.00 a.m., and you return in the afternoon. About US$65 to US$85 per person including lunch, children from 5 to 14 years 50%.

Dinner Cruises
Some of the boats which leave in the morning for the regular Island Cruises offer also a Dinner Cruise starting around 18.00 hours. After cruising around the Benoa harbor, an international buffet dinner and some entertainment by folk singers and live bands you return around 20.30 to the pier. US$40 per person, children up to 14 years 50%.

Island Cruises
There are a number of cruises from Bali through the Lesser Sunda Islands, to Sulawesi, and the Moluccas. You can choose from modern cruise liners, luxurious private yachts, and traditional Buginese schooners, and either join a scheduled cruise from 3 days to 12 or 15 days, or even charter a yacht with 2 to 12 cabins, experienced crew and Western tour guide. Please look at the different cruises and yacht charter options available or call 703-060 for information.

Submarine Safaris
You can book a tour which brings you about 60 feet below the sea South of Nusa Dua. The small submarine can carry about 25 guests, and large port holes allow to view and photograph underwater reefs and corals, many marine creatures, a large variety of fish including sharks. Departure from the Beluga Marina in Tanjung Benoa and you return after about 90 minutes. US$100 per person, 50% for children from 5 to 14 years.

Golf
The “Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club” near Bedugul in the mountains is probably Bali’s most attractive golf course (US$77.50 weekdays, US$92.50 on weekends and holidays, golf clubs US$25. Reservations tel. 62361-288.944). There is also a 18-hole course at the “Bali Golf & Country Club” in Nusa Dua near the Bali Hilton (US$135, golf clubs US$25. Tel. 62361-771.791), a 9-hole course at the Grand Bali Beach Hotel in Sanur (US$116, golf clubs US$15. Tel. 62361-288.511 ext. 1388), and the new “Nirwana Bali Golf Club” with a 18-hole course near Tanah Lot (tel. 62361-244.374).

Tennis & Squash
There are Clark Hatch Sports Clubs at the Sheraton Laguna and Nusa Indah Resort, Kartika Plaza Hotel, and Nikko Hotel each of which has several outdoor tennis courts, indoor squash courts, and complete fitness facilities. Playing partners as well as lessons are available. Most other 5-star hotels have at least some tennis courts, which can also be booked by outside guests.

White Water Rafting
Several companies offer exciting white water rafting tours (grade 2 to grade 4 rapids) on the Ayun river North-West of Ubud and — during certain times of the year — also on the Unda river North of Klungkung. You pass waterfalls and volcanic cliffs, deep-sided gorges, tranquil rice terraces and remote villages. From morning to afternoon, lunch included, US$56-US$85 per person including transfers from and to your hotel and lunch. Contact Bali Adventure Tours, tel. 62361-721.480; or Sobek Bina Utama, tel. 62361-287.059.

Other Organized Adventures
Lake and Sea Kayaking, Jungle Trekking, and Mountain Cycling, Paragliding, and even Paint Ball War Games are arranged by both companies listed above.

Go Cart Racing
There are go-cart racetracks in Tuban and in Legian. Open from 10.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m., US$17 for 15 minutes.

Bungy Jumping
There are now three companies in Kuta (A. J. Hackett. Adrenalin Park, and Bali Bungy Co.) and another company offering the island’s only waterfall jump near Gianyar. US$29 to US$49. With the “Sling Shot” at the “Adrenalin Park” in Kuta you can get shot 52 meters into the air in just over one second, and they have an overhanging climbing wall, too.

Another slingshot is located right next to the HARD ROCK RESORT.

Horseback Riding: Experience Bali on horse back, ride through paddy fields and along deserted beaches. Tours can be organized through Jaran Jaran, Loji Gardens Hotel in Legian, Telephone 62361-751.672, and Umalas Stables, Banjar Umalas, Kerobokan, Tel. 62361-287.598/964. US$20 to US$30 per person per hour.

Nature Tours
Visit the Bali Barat National Park in the West of the island, the Butterfly Park “Taman Kupu Kupu” in Wanasari, Tabanan, or the Botanical Gardens in Bedugul. Guided bird watching tours are offered starting from Ubud (in the village of Petulu a few miles north of Ubud you can also watch between 5:30 and 7:00 p.m. every day the arrival of thousands of white herons who are nesting here), and you can visit the bull races in Negara. If you stay near Lovina in the North, get up early one morning and hire a boat to watch hundreds of dolphins.

Other Activities
Balinese Cooking Classes
Discover the secrets of Balinese cuisine by joining one of the 1-Day Cooking Classes held by Heinz von Holzen, the author of the book “The Food Of Bali” and former food guru of the Grand Hyatt and Ritz Carlton hotels in Bali. You can visit Heinz in his beautiful BUMBU BALI restaurant in Tanjung Benoa next to Nusa Dua and enjoy their fabulous dishes at any time. If you wish to enroll in one of his popular classes, you better book in advance.

Balinese cooking classes are also held in Ubud at the BUMBU Restaurant (tel. 62361-974.217), at CASA LUNA (tel. 62361-96.283), and at the nearby Sua Bali Culture and Information Center (tel. 62361-941.050).

There are also 5-day classes and “2-Day Mini Schools” at the SERAI HOTEL near Candi Dasa. Balinese Music & Dance Classes: The YAYASAN POLOS SENI (Foundation for Pure Art) in Banjar Teges Kanginan, Peliatan, Ubud, e-mail polos@goarchi.com, offers Balinese music and dance classes for students who wish to become fully involved with the music & dance culture of Bali. Enrolling in one of these classes (one-to-one tuition and participation in group rehearsals and performances) means becoming a member of the family of students and teachers and an in-depth experience of the world of performers and performances in the Ubud area. There are also 2-week courses to learn playing the Gamelan at the MUSEUM SENI KLASIK in Klungkung (e-mail mailto: %20anggie@gggamelan.com) which are open for all levels of experience. Beginners as well as “non-musicians” are welcome.

Meditation Classes
Free Raya Yoga Meditation classes and regular sessions in Ubud and Denpasar, tel. 62361-976.206. There are also free lessons every Monday 19.00 at the Denpasar Meditation Shop, tel. 62361-237.260. Information on daily meetings, classes, books, tapes and videos from Bali Osho Information Center, telephone 62361-423.595.

Not Only for Children
Take a stroll through Denpasar’s bird market near the northern end of Jalan Veteran where you see not only a large variety of tropical birds but also tropical fish, cats and dogs, monkeys etc. You can visit the Taman Burung bird park with 1,000 different species of birds (and even a small Komodo dragon in the adjacent Reptile Park in Singapadu about 20 minutes north of Denpasar, the Waterboom Park with four slides and a flowing river in tropical surroundings in Tuban, or enjoy jungle treks on top of Sumatran elephants starting from the Elephant Safari Park in Taro, a village about 50 kilometers north of Denpasar. Camel rides on the beach are offered at Hotel Nikko Bali in Nusa Dua.

At the Taman Festival (Jalan Pantai Padang Galak, near the beach a few miles north of Sanur) you find several restaurants, ponds with crocodiles and turtles, many tropical birds, a large swimming pool, and non-Balinese attractions such as a monorail roller coaster, water slide, laser light show, numerous video games, and a movie theatre size “Simulator” – enjoy the ride! Entrance fee is US$15 for adults and US$7 for kids.

Hash House Harriers
There are three groups of Hash House Harriers holding regular runs on every Monday, Thursday and Saturday at 4.30 p.m. You can find up-to-date information at the GLORY restaurant in Legian, LIPS Country & Western Bar and BALI BAKERY in Kuta, ALAS ARUM supermarket, ARRI’S CAFE and KOKI’S restaurant in Sanur, and at NAUGHTY NURI’S bar in Ubud. For more details please visit their web site.

Social Clubs
Rotarians, Lions, Scal Club members, etc. hold regular meetings in various parts of Bali. Schedules are published in the local newspapers.

Shopping
You can go shopping for fine art and handicrafts such as antique and semi-antique furniture, all kinds of paintings, delicately crafted gold and silver jewelry, wood and stone carvings, masks, woven and dyed fabrics, etc. in many shops in the Kuta/Legian area, in Sanur, in various handicraft villages and the Sukawati market on the way to Ubud, and in the town of Ubud.

Beach wear, t-shirts, pants, and other clothing, shoes and leather goods, sea shells, trinkets, etc. are offered at low prices in numerous shops in Kuta and Legian as well as — much more expensive — in many hotels. Popular shopping centers are Kuta Square with many shops and a branch of the Matahari Department Store, and the Galeria Nusa Dua with over 80 specialty shops offering everything a tourist could be interested in.

Avoid the DUTY FREE SHOPPERS outlets by all means! Even local products are ridiculously priced here. Just as an example: the local HATTEN Rose wine costs wholesale about 25,000 Rupiah but at DFS one bottle of HATTEN wine is US$12!

Night Life
There is a good choice of restaurants and nightlife, too. You can explore Indonesian and other Asian cuisine, enjoy Western food, and dance or talk under the stars until the early hours.

How Much It Costs
Like many other Asian currencies, the value of the Indonesian Rupiah has moved violently since summer 1997 – from 2,400 Rupiah in July 1997 to 16,000 Rupiah for one US Dollar, and back to around 8,000 to 9,000 Rupiah – and nobody can predict tomorrow’s exchange rate! Therefore, as long as the rate for the Rupiah keeps changing (sometimes 10% to 20% up or down during a single day), please check the current exchange rate when converting Rupiah prices to your own currency.

Because of the cheap Rupiah you could enjoy huge savings during the first half of 1998. However, prices have increased steadily, and the incredible cheap bargains are a thing of the past. Moreover, the low Rupiah rate did never give you great savings on the cost of your accommodation as all major hotels (as well as villa owners and many other travel related businesses) in Indonesia have always quoted their prices in US Dollars.

Transportation in Bali was always cheap by any standard. The metered radio taxis start with a flag fall of 2,500 Rupiah (plus 1,000 Rupiah per kilometer), and most trips cost Rupiah 5,000 to 20,000.

Most reliable and polite are the drivers of the blue taxis, and you should avoid the white taxis as they often refuse to use their meter and over-charge foreigners. Motor bikes cost range from Rupiah 15,000 to Rupiah 35,000 per day, and five to ten years old self-drive cars (Jimny or Toyota Kijang) cost from 80,000 Rupiah to 200,000 Rupiah per day. Newer models are much more expensive, and luxury cars such as a Volvo limousine or a new Toyota “Land Cruiser” will cost at least US$150 to US$200 and more per day. Premium gasoline is still 1,000 Rupiah per liter.

If you didn’t bring an international driving license you better hire a car with a driver who speaks some English. However, the cars these guys drive are usually quite old. Radio, tape and even the air-conditioning are often out of order, and although many drivers are quite friendly some are real con artists. And don’t forget: they are drivers – not trained guides. However, even then it’s much more relaxing to have someone who knows his way around behind the wheel than to drive yourself. You can fully enjoy the sights, don’t have to worry whether you are on the right track, and always have somebody who watches the car and your belongings when you go sightseeing. The cost: you hardly pay more for a car with driver than for a self-drive car.

Food and drink at Bali’s better hotels cost about the same as in the same category of hotel anywhere else in the world. Breakfast is US$8 to US$30, lunch and dinner US$20 to US$100 or more per person – and that does not include any wine, which can be very expensive. As many hotels have based their prices on the US Dollar, you don’t benefit from the depreciation of the Indonesian Rupiah here.

On the other hand, restaurants outside the large hotels are often 60% cheaper, and at the open food stalls you can still get a tasty meal for a few thousand Rupiah.

If you’ve rented a private villa for your stay in Bali, your household staff will do the shopping at the local “warungs” and supermarkets and prepare your meals according to your instructions. Your savings on food and beverage will be at least US$50 to US$100 per person per day compared to what you’d spend in a good hotel. This way you can enjoy delicious meals and all your favorite snacks and drinks – at unbelievably low prices.

Visiting Mount Agung

Gunung Agung
This sacred mountain is to the Balinese what Olympus was to the ancient Greeks-the Cosmic Mountain. The Balinese, who consider this volcano “the Navel of the World,” always sleep with their heads toward Agung. The mystical Balinese believe the mountain was raised by the gods as a vantage point to view the unceasing pageant of life below. To them, it is a central, heavenly point of reference, the geographical and religious center of the world. With an elevation of 3,014 meters, the foot of the mountain stretches northeast right to the sea. To the southeast its slope is blocked by a line of small extinct volcanoes; to the northwest Agung is separated from Gunung Batur by a narrow valley.

When you fly into Bali, you’ll see the shadowy outline of the giant blue-black mountain dominating the landscape. Early in the morning its conical peak can be seen poking through the clouds from almost any part of Bali. Whether in the bright sunshine or moonlight, a stream of clouds on the crest always trails off in the wind. From the summit, you can see Pura Besakih, Gunung Rinjani on Lombok to the east, and Singaraja and the whole north coast.

Climbing the Mountain
In the dry season, between April and October, the fit and adventuresome can attempt the ascent of Gunung Agung. It’s exhausting, and can be downright dangerous. Climbers have become lost, never to be found. Don’t climb alone, and bring a flashlight, water, warm clothes, an umbrella (a necessity), and trail food. Because of sharp grass, long pants are also a good idea. Good hiking shoes with non-slip soles are a must for the final steep scramble over loose scree to the summit. Since there are innumerable trails leading skyward, particularly in the early part of the climb, you should have a guide. The cost depends on the number of people in your group. Some guides will carry your pack; some will furnish food and water.

From Besakih Temple
The most popular route begins on the trail to the right of Pura Besakih, from Pura Pengubengan, the farthest temple in the Besakih complex. This is a difficult six-km climb to Agung’s usually cloudy peak. If a religious festival is in progress, you may not be permitted to climb. Leave no later than 0630 if you don’t want clouds to obscure the view from the top. If you want to catch the sunrise from the top, start no later than 0200. After climbing about 1.5 km past some houses, you come upon a Meru temple at about 1,200 meters, where it’s possible to sleep.

From this point on, the slippery path through thick vegetation suddenly grows steeper; after two more hours it becomes steeper still. After three hours, the terrain changes from humid jungle to a slope of bare, rubbly volcanic debris and slick rock. Just before the tree line camp overnight at the holy spring of Tirta Mas. In the morning climb the last two hours to the summit. For the final assault you must literally crawl, scramble, and pull yourself up through a lava field. By sunrise you’ll reach the windy two-meter-wide summit ridge, a frightening place with icy wind and thin air-a place where people are not meant to linger. Camp on broad ledges sheltered by large slabs of rock. Allow at least four hours to get back down.

From Muncan
The southern approach to the summit, the other popular starting point, is four km east of Rendang. As you enter Muncan village from the east you’ll see a blue sign reading Mountain Guide Available/For Hire to Mt. Agung. The guide, I Ketut Uriada (in Dusun Pemuhunan) is a guru in the school a short distance away. Stay in Ketut’s home for Rp5000, plus Rp2000 for meals.

Ketut asks Rp30,000-50,000, depending on the size of group, plus vehicle charter (Rp50,000 roundtrip) to Pura Pasar Agung. Start by flashlight no later than 0300; under normal conditions you’ll return to Muncan in the evening while it’s still light.

From Sebudi
A third well-worn route starts above the small 900-meters-high village of Sebudi on the southern slopes of Agung, about 2,100 meters below the summit. This is an easier and shorter route up Agung than from Besakih. Take a car or ‘bemo’ (Rp500) from Rendang to the small agricultural village of Selat (elev. 500 meters), four km east of Muncan. Let the police in Selat know your route (Rp3000 fee); check in with them again when you get back. At the start of the village (coming from Putung) is Puri Agung Cottage with nine rooms (Rp20,000-40,000), used mostly by BLKP students. The front and most expensive room over the street is poor value. No breakfast included in price, just coffee or tea.

From Selat, allow several hours for the five-km drive north on a rocky lava road to Sebudi, where you can view a monument to the 1963 eruption. The “road” ends about four km beyond Sebudi in the village of Sorga, the farthest point you can reach by motorcycle or four-wheel-drive vehicle. It’s possible to leave your transport and other gear with the local people; you might also spend the night here. This trailhead is also your last chance to hire a guide for the rest of the way up the mountain-well worth the price since trails are so poorly marked. Fit climbers can complete the whole ascent in a single day. If you begin the climb from Sebudi by 0730, stop for lunch two-thirds of the way up at around 1200, you’ll reach the summit at 1330. Head down by 1430 so you can arrive in Sorga by 1730 for the drive back to Selat.

From Sorga you walk about an hour along streambeds to Sangkawasa; it’s possible to stay the night here in Pura Pasar Agung, a small temple built on the last level area before the really steep part of the climb. See the ‘pemangku’ and don’t forget to make a donation (Rp5000) for a safe climb. Next come boulders and a dense pine stand. The trail is not well defined and you’ll learn now to appreciate your guide. In an hour you reach a small, stony valley with a spring, the last chance for water. At 2,000 meters you leave the tree line and at 3,000 meters you can peer into the 500-meter-deep crater through a gap in the fragile wall. Since standing on the volcano’s crumbling edge is madness, lie flat and hang over the sharp rim to look down on steam, smoke, and multihued rocks while breathing in a strong whiff of sulfur.

With an outer wall-to-wall diameter of 625 by 425 meters, a crater floor of 250 by 125 meters, and an elevation of 2,700 meters, this scarred crater is impressive. The summit, out of sight and to the west, is only about 20 meters higher than the edge of the crater-another 20-minute hike. Take a good look before you forsake this hostile environment of bitter cold and icy winds. Resist gravity’s pull when slipping and sliding over loose volcanic rubble on your way back down; descending too fast is dangerous. A sturdy staff is an invaluable aid.

Besakih
Bali’s oldest, largest, most impressive and austere temple complex sits one-third the way up the slopes of Gunung Agung. Besakih, actually consisting of three temple compounds, is the Mother Temple of Bali and the most important of the island’s ‘Sad Kahyangan’ religious shrines. It’s Bali’s supreme holy place, the essence of all Bali’s 20,000 temples, a symbol of religious unity, and the only temple that serves all Balinese. Even though it’s touristy, it’s still spectacular-good energy!

Get an early start so you arrive about 0800, before the tourist hordes, when the top of the massive volcano behind Besakih is clear. Plan to leave before early afternoon rains. From Besakih, head down the hill to Pesaban, south of Rendang to the west, to the Garden Restaurant at Bukit Jambul for its afternoon Indo/Chinese buffet (Rp12,000). Look out over rice terraces all the way to the sea. Outside the restaurant, tour buses clog the highway. Or pause at the beautiful Kori Agung restaurant about one km south of Besakih temple – a huge place with expensive views and great food at reasonable prices.

If you want to stay overnight in the Besakih area, on the road between Menanga and Besakih is the Arca Valley Restaurant and Homestay, Rp 15,000-20,000 for spartan rooms, or ask around for homestays at the shops and stalls on the road up from the parking lot to the temple. Eat reasonably well at the Arca Valley or at Restaurant Mawar in Menanga.

Services
There’s a tourist office on a corner of the parking lot that doesn’t dispense much literature but adroitly answers questions. You’ll also find a small post office (Wartel) and Bank Rakyat Indonesia (terrible rates) in the parking lot.

Warnings
Bring your change purse, as every device imaginable to separate tourists from their rupiah is in full operation here. One reader reports declining to rent a sarong offered for a preposterous Rp5000-you can buy a sarong for Rp8000. Little children approach quite sweetly, lay a flower in your lap, then demand money. The merits of the site are nearly outweighed by the swarms of hawkers, touts, beggars, and vendors. First they sting you for parking (Rp300), then when you sign the guestbook you’re pestered for an inflated donation (Rp10,000-30,000 but just give Rp500), then they hit you for a ticket (Rp1100) to the temple grounds. Arrive as early as possible to experience the temple at its best (open 0800-1700).

Getting There
Besakih is about a two-hour (61 km) drive northeast of Denpasar, or one hour (18 km) northeast of Klungkung. On holidays take a ‘bemo’ or minibus directly from the small terminal just north of Klungkung (Rp1000). At other times take one first from Klungkung via Rendang to Menanga (Rp750), then another up the steep six-km climb (Rp500) to the Besakih parking lot. Or get a ‘bemo’ to Rendang (Rp600), then travel another nine km up the road to Besakih.

If you’re coming from the north, take it slow over the potholed road from Penelokan, which begins along the route to Abang. From the Besakih parking lot, walk 600 meters past souvenir stalls, drink stands, and pay toilets (or ride on the back of a motorcycle, Rp2000 if you bargain) to the start of the stairway up to the main sanctuary. The walk is a steady gradual grade.

Even though it’s a place for Hindu ancestor worship, non-Hindus may still enter the temple itself if they bring an offering or pay for an offering (Rp1000). You may also walk around the entire complex. There are a number of vantagepoints where you can peer inside and try to guess what’s going on. Well-informed and friendly students will volunteer themselves as guides. About Rp2000 is adequate, but always agree on a price beforehand. After 1400, it may be difficult to find a public ‘bemo’ back down to Klungkung.