Water Sport

Surfing
Bali’s surf is world class, with power and speed comparable to Hawaii. Surfers who have experienced waves from Santa Cruz to Baja claim that Bali’s surf is superior to any along the United States’ West Coast. Drawn by the surf, thousands of Californians, Japanese, Australians, and Brazilians arrive each year to test themselves on Bali’s famous tubular waves. International and professional surfers train on Bali for the prize money on the contest circuit around the Pacific. Bali’s Annual Surf Championships are held at Suluban, not far from Jimbaran, but the logistics of the Bukit Peninsula make it difficult to hold big events like the Quicksilver Pro contest.

Waves on Bali were already being surfed by both foreign and local surfers as early as the late 1930s. So it’s not true, according to contemporary surfing magazine lore, the island of Bali was first discovered as a viable surfing destination by a group of traveling Australian surfers. Even though, in 1967, the surf explorers from Australia first begin arriving on the island of Bali bearing serious wave-riding equipment.

Venturing into the surf beginning around 1972, a breed of hip young Balinese surfers evolved, wearing neo-primitive neck pendants, talking about their boards, and calling you “Mate” or “Hey, Spunky!” Their fluid movements, control, robust natures, and easy-going lifestyle make the Balinese skillful and ardent surfers. Usually the majority, with their own surf clubs, they can be found in numbers at nearly all beaches. They also tend to be hotheaded if surfing etiquette or territory is breached. Drop in on them and they could get physical. They’ll be quick to remind you that this is their country, their waves, so don’t bring your home beach mentality with you.

The Balinese have been surfing since the 1980s, there are now regular competitions on the island, and a distinctively fluid Balinese style of surfing has evolved. For the best low-down on the surfing scene in Bali, the place to head for is Kuta, where you’ll find the biggest choice of surf shops, as well as the island’s only surfers’ bar, Tubes, monthly tide charts, and plenty of other surfers to compare notes with.

Surfing Seasons
Considered a mecca for warm water surfing, Bali gets the full force of ocean swells breaking over shallow coral reefs. Winds blow away from the land, bringing trade winds, which give shape and consistency to the waves. Bali offers good surf all year long, but the best, most consistent swells are from June to August. It’s the best known surfing locale in Indonesia.

The island experiences a hot, wet season (Nov-Feb) and a long, cooler dry season (March-Oct). During the dry, winds for the most part are from the northwest and often accompanied by rainsqualls, creating large waves on the Nusa Dua-Sanur side of the island. When the winds are too strong, though, Nusa Dua is usually blown out. Also during the dry season, the northeast tradewinds make respectable offshore breaks at Uluwatu, G’Land, and Nusa Lembongan Island. The months in-between have variable conditions and winds.

Bali’s worst wind for surfing is a southerly. The Nusa Dua headland, for example, will divide the flow on both the Uluwatu and Nusa Dua sides. Tides also play a big role in the type, duration, and size of swells. The best tides come in during the full and new lunar phases. Sudden, powerful cyclones in the Indian Ocean dramatically increase the size of swells. The waters around Bali have the advantage of being warm year-round; in the wet season the average temperatures are in the 80s F, but a vest or spring suit is needed during the dry when temperatures can drop into the 70s at exposed locations. The dry season is best because there’s less humidity and evenings are cool.

Surfing Locales
The best surfing spots are crowded during the dry season, but since there are so many the experienced wave rider is always able to find his own retreat. Pride of place goes to Uluwatu and nearby Padang Padang on the Bukit Peninsula, which get swells churned in storms in the Indian Ocean during the wet season. For more detailed info, look up each surf spot in the travel chapters.

Uluwatu, famous for its left break, is ringed by high cliffs which surfers must climb down to reach a large sea cave. This is the only way to paddle out to breaks with names like The Race Track, the Peak, The Bommie, The Inside Corner, the Outside Corner-about seven breaks in all. If the current is too strong to reach the cave or the reef in front, make for the beach. Get here from Kuta by ‘bemo’ (30 minutes), then walk about three-km. Or get a motorbike, which will take you most of the way in. Padang Padang, north of Uluwatu toward Kuta, can be reached by walking a cliff path from Uluwatu, then climbing down to the beach or by car or motorcycle from Kuta. The very shallow, hollow left here is treacherous because of the cliffs. It’s not for beginners, and don’t surf if there are too many surfers. Very popular is Bingin, near Padang Padang, a hollow left best at medium to low tides.

Kuta and Legian beaches are not an episode out of Baywatch. With a vicious undertow, the inviting appearance of the waves at Kuta Beach can be deceptive. An average of 40 people still drown each year off Kuta and Legian. Always stay within the clearly marked red and yellow flags. Lifeguards constantly patrol the beach during daylight. Kuta Reef, a long stretch of coral about one km out to sea, is best known for its left-hand break. Most riders take an outrigger to this reef, then get picked up again at a specified time. When the wind turns offshore at Kuta, surfers evacuate for Sanur on the other side of the island where the wind is onshore.

Sanur’s famous hollow right-hand break is considered by many the best on the island-when it’s working, which is only about 25 days a year. Sanur is sheltered from most waves so the swell needs to be big to get in here. When it does, the walls line up down the reef for long, fast rides. It’s imperative that you pull out before the final dredge-out or you’ll be driven against the reef.

Nusa Dua offers a consistent right-hander through the wet season, though consistency means big crowds. Hire a boat for the return trip because the best waves are far offshore. On the way out are lefts and rights but the outside rights are the main attraction-steep takeoffs and fast bowling walls. This high quality wave is known as the Sunset of Bali. In this same area, just in front of Club Med, is a very fast, difficult right-hander known as Sri Lanka. Surfing is a big attraction at Nusa Lembongan, a small isle off the southeast coast.

Three of the most superb though deadly breaks in the world can be found off the West Side of the island. This uncrowded surf is reasonably accessible from Sanur, just two hours by motorized boat. You can stay in very inexpensive and comfortable beach inns strung out in the small fishing/surfing village of Jungut Batu. The adjacent, larger island of Nusa Penida to the east, has abundant surf but dangerous coral. Other locales include Tanjung Sari, Serangan, and Canggu near the village of Krobokan, Medewi about 75 km west of Denpasar, and Padangbai on the East Coast. The jetties at Candidasa were built to protect the beach and create a nice environment to swim in, but the surf is located out to sea. Nearly all of these surfing spots have ‘warung’ where you can do the ‘dharma’ bum thing: eat, drink, nap, even stay overnight in makeshift thatch shelters.

Transport
Surfers usually charter ‘bemo’ to their favorite beaches. From Kuta, have the ‘bemo’ to drop you off in Uluwatu and pick you up three hours later. A motorcycle can travel the more difficult tracks to remote beaches, although in the wet season the tracks become muddy and slippery. Get a strong board strap (with foam padding) or sew a strap to your board cover so it can be carried on a motorcycle.

Health and Safety
Although a visit to Bali is one of the world’s best surfing holidays, don’t take on too much at once. Familiarize yourself with the coral reef breaks, and ease into it, taking on more formidable breaks gradually. Bali’s shoreline is notorious for its extreme currents and rip tides – both of which can make surfing quite hazardous – and for its reefs. Ask the lifeguards to point out where the rip tides are if you can’t tell from the shore, and if you do get caught in one, stay calm and paddle sideways across the rip to get out of it, never try to paddle straight in or out of it. Be sure to wash your coral cuts every night with a good disinfectant and to remove sea urchin spines without breaking them: urinating on the wound is supposed to help alleviate swelling. Sunburn and heat stroke are very real problems when you’re out on the waves in the heat of the tropical sun: sunblock is essential, and most surfers wear a rash-vest as well. It’s also advisable to bone up on your first-aid knowledge, especially mouth-to-mouth resuscitation techniques, which can be lifesaving if someone’s been knocked out on a remote break.

In case of broken bones, cuts, or infections from live coral reefs, get yourself to the Nusa Dua Clinic on Jalan Pratama 81 A-B, tel. 62361-771.324, or the new emergency annex at Denpasar’s Sanglah Hospital on Jalan Bali 5, tel. 62361-235.546. All the top-class hotels have resident physicians who are familiar with surfing injuries. Watch when paddling across shallow reefs; the reef-dwelling sea urchin is a brownish sphere covered in 20- to 25-cm-long spines. With a needle, remove the spines very carefully without breaking them. Urinate on the wound or place it in thick mud to relieve the pain. Hot water or methylated spirit baths help too. Surfers may also be called upon to give mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. A well-equipped first-aid kit, including elastoplast and needles to remove sea-urchin spines, is a must. Refer to the Health section later in this chapter

Equipment
Bring a snorkel, fins, mask, wetsuit vest, small daypack, surfboard repair kit, silver tape, at least five blocks of wax, and the widest, waffle-bottom running shoes you can find. If you’re only bringing one board, a six foot six (two metro) board is the best for beach breaks and most reefs, though for the biggest waves you’ll need one that’s at least six foot ten (two meters ten) as well. Bring reef shoes for the coral, a helmet for the reef breaks, and an emergency ding-repair kit, though you’ll be able to get repairs done in Kuta and at some of the other big surf beaches as well.

California and Australian-style short boards are okay for the breaks at Kuta Beach, but you’ll need at least a seven-foot board for the bigger waves at Uluwatu and Padang Padang. For fast waves, like Uluwatu’s, a semi- to full-gun design is recommended. If you don’t have a good travel cover, use bubble plastic. Take special care in packing detachable fins in your luggage or consider taking along extras. You can’t count on replacing them here. Hardsole wetsuit booties are critical when walking across coral reefs at low tide. A wetsuit vest gives warmth in cold winds and protects against falls on coral.

If you come without equipment, you’ll find plenty of surf shops in Kuta (Bali), selling boards, spare fins and leashes and brand-name surfwear; you can also rent boards for a fairly reasonable fee from the Balinese surfers who hang out at the major breaks. Nonetheless, it’s cheaper and probably more satisfactory to bring your own gear. For most of your surfwear and accessories, shop at Rip Curl on Jalan Legian Kelod, tel. 62361-754.455, but expect high prices compared to Australia or the USA.

Most airlines will take boards in the hold for free so long as your total luggage weight doesn’t exceed 20kg. Just make sure you label them clearly and put them in well-padded board bags (board bags with straps are a good idea as a number of the best breaks are accessible by motorbike only). Some airlines demand compulsory insurance for your board when you check in, so it’s worth calling the airline in advance.

Surf Tours
A few outfits in Benoa, Sanur, and Nusa Dua specialize in surfing excursions on private boats to premier surfing spots around Bali and Indonesia’s southeastern Islands. A weeklong safari to Lombok and Sumbawa is organized by Mainski Inn on Nusa Lembongan. They’ll take you to some wonderful breaks that can’t be reached by land. Contact Offshore Adventure, P.O. Box 636, Epping 2121, N.S.W., Australia, tel./fax 02-868-1265.

Snorkeling and Scuba Diving
Bali is a scuba, spearfishing, and snorkeling center, famous among divers for marine-life, superb visibility, and sensational drop-offs. Six hundred km of coastline and numerous offshore islands offer a wide range of snorkeling and diving locations. Your options include one of many operators offering snorkeling and diving trips or join an all-inclusive package that sails to dive sites around Bali and islands to the east. If it’s not monsoon season (Oct-April), count on warm tropical waters around 80° F. Snorkeling is an excellent and safe activity for children.

Abundant marine-life can be enjoyed on the reefs off Sanur, Nusa Dua, Lovina and Padangbai – all accessible by boat. Snorkeling can be enjoyed anywhere there’s scuba diving – if an area has good coral reefs, there will be snorkeling gear for rent. Scuba diving is more expensive, frequently requiring land or sea transport to the best dive locations. The best diving on Bali is from around five to twenty meters, though during the wet season storms may reduce visibility. Drift diving was made popular on Bali because techniques were needed to accommodate the deep currents surrounding the island. Divers usually suit up on the beach in front of the dive master’s favorite restaurant (where he’ll receive a kickback later on). Most operators take divers (two people per boat) to the dive site in outriggers (jukung) fitted with small outboard motors. Passengers often get soaked, no matter how skilled the boatmen, and sometimes you have to clear the boat off a fringing reef.

Costs
Price depends on the number of people in your group and where you start. Dives are not much less than you’d pay in the U.S., Europe, or Australia, they’re quite reasonable considering the personalized nature of the tours and the amenities: two tanks, weight-belt, wetsuits, refreshment, and experienced dive masters. Also lunch, transport to the site, excellent Balinese-style accommodations, even porters to and from the beach. Operators will pick you up at Kuta, Legian, or Sanur for free. But from the Ubud or Tanah Lot areas, there’s an extra charge. Shop around and carefully examine an operator’s “Diving Menu.”

One way to save money is to arrange your own transportation to the site and rent directly from the dive shop there, or bring your own equipment: a mask, snorkel, and fins, marine gloves, BCD, regulators, wetsuits, underwater torch, motor marine camera. Rental gear varies in quality, but some outfits use top-class Bauer compressors and Scubapro equipment.

Information
Balinese dive guides don’t have literature, the best operators employ guides proficient in both English and Japanese. Bring your own information or learn Indonesian. You don’t want just a floating babysitter, but someone who can point things out like turtle-sand mantras. For Pulau Menjangan, you’ll need interpretive material. Anyone really serious about diving in Bali, as well in the rest of Indonesia, should get hold of the latest Periplus Travel Guide Underwater Indonesia by Kal Muller. This excellent dive guide contains color photos, essays on reef ecology, local geography, history, charts of site conditions, and maps.

Safety
Bring your scuba certification-whether PADI, BSAC, NAUI, SSI, or FAUI. Bali’s dive operators will not take you out without an internationally recognized certificate. If you want to learn how to dive, dozens of companies specialize in PADI and introductory one-day courses using fully qualified teachers and divers. Although virtually every piece of equipment you could possibly need is available on Bali, hardcore divers might consider taking along their own masks and regulators. Before diving, your instructor will make an offering to the gods of the sea. Always go with a dive master or guide who knows the area, and who’s made the dive before. Make sure your guide is paying attention to your safety. Don’t let him take you somewhere beyond your skill level, and make sure you don’t get bad air.

Sobek Whitewater Rafting
Run by Sobek Adventures, with 18 years in the business, this fast, exciting, yet safe two-hour trip on the stunning Ayung River is a blast. Not only is the Ayung Bali’s longest river but it flows year-round. The nine-km run is expensive, but rafting is one of the best ways to see things you normally can’t, namely one of Bali’s last original rainforests. This excursion is just dangerous enough to be scary but it’s not life-threatening. There are 21 rapids in all, but none hairier than Class II. You’ll raft under a large, pounding waterfall, ram into stone walls, and take on water and pirouette with your skilled captain. If you’re with a young group, there’s lots of splashing, passenger dunking, and raft bumping, so if you want a sedate experience choose a group of older thrill-seekers.

The trip is a botanist’s delight and the safest means to enjoy nature really close up. Sadly, you won’t see much wildlife. First you’ll descend a twisting hillside track to the river where you receive a stern safety lecture about water safety, rafting commands, and what to do if the raft capsizes. It’s all very safe with high-standard bright yellow helmets, paddles and life jackets required-plus insurance coverage. The service and facilities are international standard. Each Avon self-bailing raft holds four to six people, depending on size. The captains are well trained and extremely capable but also know how to have fun. They have pulleys, throw-bags, and first-aid kits and know how to use them. Ask for the Batak, Jungle Johnson-the most experienced.

In spite of the first sharp bend, the overall run is ideal for children because the river is shallow. If the raft turns over you can just stand up. Two snapshots of your gasping, screaming group are provided. Copies are available at the end of the trip. Book where you see the red raft brochures on hotel and restaurant countertops, or phone one of their English-speaking guides at 62361-287059. Their headquarters is at Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai 56 X, Sanur. At no extra charge Sobek will pick you or your group up in an a/c van at your hotel almost anywhere on Bali. A new private road leads to the rafting base in the mountain village of Begawan.

Bring a voucher or payment, shorts or bathing suit, loose-fitting T-shirt, towel, Teva-type sandals or rubber-soled river shoes, hat, sunblock, a change of clothes (changing rooms and showers available), and a camera (they have a dry bag). Near the village of Kedewatan at the end of the trip, a big Indonesian-style, all-you-can-eat buffet, catered by Ubud’s Cafe Wayan, is waiting for you. First-class dining! Sobek also offers Class IV Wild Whitewater on the West Bali River, leaving Kuta at 0700 and arriving back at 1700. Limited space so confirm your booking in advance.

Other Rafting Outfits
As a result of Sobek’s wild success, a whole slew of rafting companies has opened up. Offering tours to the island’s first Class IV river, is Bali Safari Rafting, Jalan Hayam Wuruk 88 A, Denpasar 80235, tel. 62361-221.315 or 221.316, fax 232.268. For those who enjoy the spills and thrills of whitewater rapids, the full day excursion includes transfers, lunch, and experienced guides. The run down the Telaga Waja River starts from Muncan, 17 km from Klungkung. Be prepared for a quieter, yet faster wilderness ride than the Ayung River. You’ll paddle through a spectacular waterfall and plunge five meters from the Bajing Dam into churning whitewater.

Also check out Bali International Rafting, with offices in Kuta at Jalan Raya Kuta 16 M, tel. 62361-757.052, 757.053, or 757.054, fax 752.956; Ayung River Rafting, Jalan Diponegoro 150 B, tel. 62361-238.759 or 224.236, fax 224236; Arha Bali Rafting, Jalan Muding Indah II/4, Krobokan, tel./fax 62361-427.446, who advertise the longest (12 km) whitewater adventure on Bali on a Class II-III river.

Glass-Bottom Boat Tours
The Sea Rover departs at 1030 from Benoa Harbor, returning at 1300. The tour includes onboard tour guide, soft drink, delicious lunch box, equipment, coral viewing, snorkeling, a visit to Turtle Island and transport back to your hotel. Children under 10 are half price. You dive on a rugged, colorful reef, teeming with tropical fish. Contact PT Tourdevco, Benoa Harbor, tel. 62361-231.591, fax 231.592, or their home office at Jalan Segara Werdi 6, Tanjung Benoa, tel. 62361-72.535. Other outfits, like Bali Marine Sports, Jalan Bypass, Sanur, tel. 62361-287.872, 288.776, or 289.308, fax 287.872.

A variation on the glass-bottom theme is the Beluga Submarine Tour. Experience exotic underwater scenes from the comfort of a sophisticated submarine. With the help of specially designed floodlights, you’ll be able to observe tropical fish, delicate corals, and unusual plant-life. For more information and reservations, call PT Submarine Safaris Asia, Jalan Segara Kidul 3, Tanjung Benoa, Bali, tel. 62361-80.361.

The Island Princess sails on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday and is one of the cheapest excursions available. You will get hotel pickup at 0800, morning and afternoon tea or coffee, fresh fruit, a flame-grilled barbecue, snorkeling, game fishing (trolling) and a bus tour of Nusa Penida Island. Book where you pick up their brochure, or call direct to Island Explorer Cruises, Jalan Sekar Waru 8, Sanur, tel. 62361-289.856.

Windsurfing
Along with ordinary surfing, windsurfing is gaining great popularity; see brightly colored sails leap over waves off Kuta, Sanur, and Candidasa. July and August are the best time to windsurf. Ideal wind velocity is 15 km/hour, and you can windsurf all the way from Sanur to Serangan Island. Sanur Wind Surfing Center, probably offers Bali’s best service, giving windsurfing lessons and surfing tours around Bali. Make reservations at Jalan Sekar Waru II, No. 1, Belanjong, Sanur, tel. 62361-288.976, or at their counter on Jalan Duyung on the south side of the Bali Hyatt Hotel next to Banjar Restaurant.

Waterbom Park
Six hundred meters of slides and other aquatic thrills make up this beautifully landscaped three-and-a-half-hectare park. Two twisting, looping jungle rides, an adventurous run on a two-seat tube raft, 250-meter-long circular lazy river rapids and cascading waterfall, water race tracks where you can reach speeds of 50 kph, children’s area, large pleasure pool with underwater music, underwater volleyball, and a swim-up bar. The water here is chlorinated by a state-of-the-art saltwater system, and the park offers a tranquil environment underneath a large, shady, coconut grove with no vendors.

Food ranges from croissants and gourmet sandwiches on fresh bread to homemade ice cream and an honest burger. There are swim-gear and accessories shops, changing rooms, showers, lockers, and towel rental. The staff keeps a careful eye out for young children. Located on Jalan Kartika Plaza in Tuban, open 0900-1800, tel. 62361-755.676. Season passes and group rates available.

Penyu Dewata, Box 666, Sanur, tel. 62361-89.211 or 89.212, is a nine-hectare water park in Padang Galak in the delta of the Ayung River. The olympic-size pools are cleaned regularly, certified lifeguards are on hand, and there’s a cafeteria, lockers, and changing rooms. Children can take lessons from qualified and experienced instructors.

Swimming
The safest areas to swim are the coral lagoons abutting Sanur, Nusa Dua, and Candidasa. Kuta and Legian boast excellent bodysurfing with crystal-clear water and top-to-bottom tubes. For your own safety, swim only between the red and yellow flags, never after sunset, and don’t swim deeper than your body length. The undertow off Kuta/Legian is extremely treacherous and unpredictable. One of Bali’s nicest, least known beaches for swimming is at the airport end of Kuta in Tuban. Virtually all of the luxury-class hotels and a growing number of small, moderately priced hotels, have swimming pools, open to non-guests.

Dolphin Watching
The two principle sites for commercial outings are off Candidasa (Karangasem) on the East Coast and Lovina (Buleleng) on the north coast. However, you have a fairly good chance of seeing dolphins anytime you go out on a boat in Bali’s waters. On average five or six boats follow the dolphins, then turn off their motors to experience the dolphins flipping, diving, and blowing. In a split second they’re gone. You may go out and not see one dolphin-it’s hit or miss. Book the day before and give them your room number. They’ll wake you up 15 minutes before departure.

Kayaking
Sobek offers a kayaking tour using small, inflatable, new-designer kayaks that can’t roll-completely safe for beginners. Tour an excellent section of river through tropical rainforest and vine-hung gorges. The price includes world-class guides, splash-proof camera bags, a great meal at the end, and hotel pick up in Nusa Dua (1100-1115), Kuta (1130-1145), Sanur (1145-1200), and Ubud (1245-0100).

Water Sports Area
If you’re really into water sports, stay in Nusa Dua, Sanur, or Tanjung Benoa, Candidasa on the coast or Bedugul in the mountains of Tabanan Regency. Dozens of sea sport agencies line Sanur’s main street, offering waterskiing, jet skiing, parasailing, windsurfing and chartered sailboats. They also rent speedboat, paddle cat and banana boat.

On Land Sport

Hiking and Trekking
The best way to see Bali is to get out and walk and just get lost. The Balinese themselves don’t like to walk-anything over 500 meters is considered ‘jauh’ (far)-but for Westerners it’s the best way to totally immerse yourself in the culture because the roads are its culture. Bali’s roads are also its sidewalks, playgrounds, work areas, kitchens, living rooms, laundry rooms, and the principal village meeting places, though increasing traffic is discouraging these uses. Footpaths can also be used by motorcycles during peak hours.

The start of trailheads are always accessible by public ‘bemo’ or ‘ojek’. Take a ‘bemo’ to the end of a country road, then set off on a narrow half-hidden pathway and follow it inland perhaps 15 km. You won’t lose your way if you know what ‘Ke mana?’ means (“Where?”). People will correct you if you make a wrong turn. It’s easier than you think finding your way through cultivated rice fields, which act like giant steps. Be careful to always remain on the narrow borders of the fields and not to tread in the paddies themselves.

If you veer ever so slightly from the well-trod paths, it’s just like walking into someone’s living room. You may end up spending the night in places about as outlandish as you want to be in-no cold drinks, police, shops, or transport connections. Children pop up and yell out a singsong “Hello,” and you could come across infants who start screaming, cattle that start stampeding in terror, and dogs that’ll howl mercilessly at the sight of your white face.

Take only two changes of clothes: a shirt and shorts, of decent length, which can be washed and dried in the sun, and a sash and ‘sarung’ for swimming or as a cover-up when entering temples. You don’t need boots, which are too hot, sweaty, and smelly, unless you’re climbing Gunung Agung. Sturdy strap sandals (Tevas) will protect your feet, allow you to ford streams without removing footwear, and walk along irrigation ditches and paths between rice fields. They can also be worn on semi-formal occasions.

Bicycle Touring
Sobek does a bike tour, “The Batur Trail”. It begins with a drive up to the Kintamani area at 1,700 meters above sea level by an air-conditioned van. After brunch you ride back down a less-trafficked road, an easy-going two-and-a-half-hour trip with one hill that you can ride up in the van or on your bike. Back roads take you through dense rainforests and groves of giant bamboo, and past picture-postcard terraces and sleepy mountain villages. The price includes all transport, mountain bikes, helmets, gloves, breakfast, drinks, and buffet lunch in Ubud.

For more experienced cyclists, Sobek offers an off-road tour of twisting mountain tracks, steep-sided gorges, rocky river beds, and rice terrace paths. This two-hour trip takes in superb scenery around the Was River north of Ubud. For both tours take along voucher or payment, shorts, a T-shirt, running shoes, sunglasses, sunblock and camera.

Iskander Waworuntu in Sanur does mountain bike tours from his upland farm in Pupuan down to the sea. You can join the group for a portion of the day, or stay overnight at his house in Pupuan and do a two-day trip. You’ll see beautiful rice fields, forests, rivers, steep ravines, and remote villages. Your choice of selected off-road routes for different skill levels. From the starting point in Batungsel village at 1000, the route may take any direction. The price of Iskander’s tour includes well-equipped, tough mountain bikes, two guides, and transport to and from your hotel. Hotel pick-up time in Sanur is 0800, drop-off around 1800. Contact Meru Bicycle Day Trips at the Tanjung Sari, Private Bungalows, Jalan D. Tamblingan 41, Sanur (tel. 62361-288.441, fax 287.930), or at Cafe Batu Jimbar on Jalan D. Tamblingan, tel. 62361-87.374.

Pony Rides
It’s a long, pretty drive down bumpy country roads to the Pony Tour facility deep in Tabanan Regency for this full-day guided circular tour. Horses allow you access to an area only three kilometers west of Tanah Lot, yet almost totally unaffected by tourist development. After a safety talk you’ll get a five-minute riding lesson to assess your experience and find a suitable mount. You may be led or ride unassisted. Helmets are available as are ponchos if it rains and a fanny pack to carry valuables.

The word “pony” is used because it sounds safer, but these are actually retired racing horses from Java and Sumba. A variety of heights are on hand-from small ponies to larger horses. These aren’t your ordinary, trail-weary steeds; they are well cared for and cost as much as seven million rupiah. Like Indonesians, they are small but very strong and highly spirited-miniature versions of classic Arabian stallions.

After the horses are fitted with English saddles and snaffle bits, you head out a narrow path through stunning rice fields, bushland, and across rivers. The guides are absolutely first-rate. Ketut, looking like an American Indian chief and always in control, is a magnificent guide and horseman. He’ll explain rice growing techniques and you’ll get a wonderful tour of a traditional Balinese compound with an explanation of each building. Later you’ll ride along the beach, the perfect place to learn. You’ll get the quickest cantering lesson you’ve ever had and see displays of horsemanship that would measure up to any seasoned cowboy or rodeo star.

On returning to the stables, mediocre Balinese food is served cold and there are too many flies; better to eat a pack lunch on the beach instead of near the stables. Nevertheless, this is one of the most glamorous and exciting activities you can do on Bali, an unforgettable day for anyone who loves horses and the Balinese culture. The price includes transport, lunch, and refreshments. You’re picked up in an air-conditioned van at your hotel in Kuta or Legian at 0830, Sanur and Nusa Dua at 0800; also pickups from Ubud, returning around 1500. Bring long pants, a strong pair of shoes (no thongs), sun hat, sunblock, and a bathing suit and towel if you want to swim in the ocean. Changing rooms are available at the stables. Sign up at the Mesari Beach Inn, Jalan Dhyana Pura in Legian, or call PT Bali Jaran Jaran Kencana, Loji Garden Hotel, Legian, tel. 62361-751.672 or 751.746, fax 751.746. Office hours 0800-1600; after office hours tel. 62361-751.672 or 751.572. Also ask about the Sunset Pony Tour.

Game Fishing
For years local Balinese fishermen trolled “feathers,” brightly colored lures of plastic or rope, baiting the Spanish mackerel that populated Bali’s waters. Farther out, jukung plied the waters off Nusa Penida for prized red snapper. With the rise of the Japanese market in the late 1980s, fleets of fishing boats based themselves at Benoa, which also became Bali’s sport fishing base. There are dozens of operators to take tourists game fishing.

One of the best tours is onboard the Simone II, a high-tech, high speed, American designed vessel powered by twin 300-hp motors. It’s equipped with game rods from 20 to 80 pounds, a tower overlooking the large aft deck, a shower, toilet, fridge, microwave oven, and a “V” berth. Passengers are picked up at their hotel at 0800; the Simone departs Benoa around 0830 for the fishing grounds. These waters harbor several species of dolphin, whales, sharks, and giant manta rays near Nusa Penida. The predominant species are the yellowfin tuna, blue an, dogtooth, Spanish mackerel, wahoo, and mahimahi.

Off the coast of Candidasa and the south coast of Lombok are the game angler targets-sailfish and black marlin. Below the 100-meter-high cliffs at Nusa Penida is the habitat of large tuna. The area off the southwestern coast is known for big yellowfin tuna. Releasing rare billfish is encouraged, preserving these species and bringing enjoyment to other anglers. At the end of a hard day’s angling a delicious buffet lunch is served, unless a catch results in instant sashimi.

Trawling and coral fishing is offered by the Sea Rover. Departing Benoa Harbor at 0900, returning at 1600, the price includes return hotel transport, an experienced crew, ice cold beer, soft drinks, or mineral water, delicious box lunch, fishing equipment, and bait. The Rover sails down Bali’s coast, following the birds to the best fishing spots. For more information on both the Simone III and the Sea Rover, contact P.T. Tour Devco Benoa, tel. 62361-231.591, fax. 231.592. Book at least a day ahead; for extensions, book one week ahead.

A one-day fishing tour is offered by the Ena Dive Center. Pick-up is at your hotel at 0800, then climb aboard a specially built outrigger with trawling and deep sea fishing gear for the trip to Nusa Penida. Off Nusa Lembongan you can also enjoy snorkeling in unspoiled coral gardens. For reservations, call tel. 62361-287.945 or 286.446, fax 287.945, or visit their office at Jalan Tirta Ening 26 Sanur, Box 3798, Denpasar.

Bali Marine Sports, Jalan Bypass, Blanjong, Sanur, tel. 62361-287.872, 288.776, or 289308, offers a “sea tour with fishing” to Lembongan, designed along the same lines. The White Marlin fishing boat can be chartered for eight hours to Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida: deep sea excursions, coral fishing and troll fishing. Reserve a place by contacting Bali Camar Yacht Charter, tel. 62361-720.591 or 771.956, fax 720.592.

Golf
Five in the morning is golf time; get two hours of exercise and breakfast under your belt by 0800. The finest course in Asia and one of the world’s top 50 is the Bali Golf and Country Club in Pancasari near Bedugul just north of Lake Bratan. Judged fifth in the world for technical design and service, this 18-hole championship course features tall trees and flowers in riotous colors separating its grand, panoramic fairways. For reservations and information, call tel. 62361-71.791 or 288.944, fax 71.797. Other courses are the Bali Golf and Country Club on Nusa Dua, tel. 62361-771.791 or 771.793, and at the Grand Bali Beach Hotel, tel. 62361-288.511, in Sanur. All courses have caddies available for hire. You might get a discount by contacting Bali Discount Golf (tel. 62361-286.044); they provide transfers, greens fees (18 holes), club hire (full set), caddy, and golf cart (Nusa Dua only).

Tennis
To avoid the heat, tennis time on Bali is 0500 or in the cool evenings. Two girls in sarong, stationing themselves at each end of the net, are your ball-girls. Although there are some fine players among them, the Balinese on the whole have a happy-go-lucky attitude toward the game. Seldom rushing the net, they leave you to knock yourself out red-faced from exertion. Learn instead to just play a steady, non-aggressive game on the red-clay courts of the island. For many tourists, this is their only chance to meet Indonesians on equal ground, and vice versa.

Tennis courts are found at the Bali Beach Hotel and the Bali Hyatt in Sanur; Pertamina Cottages in Tuban (near Kuta); Hotel Tjampuan in Ubud; and the Bali Golf and Country Club in Pancasari (near Bedugul). You can find tennis courts as part of the resort complex of virtually every hotel in Nusa Dua, and in dozens of other top-end hotels around Bali. In Denpasar, courts are located at Jalan M.T. Haryono, Jalan Kamboja, Putung Karangasem, and in Tanjung Bungkak.

Paragliding
Based at windy Bukit Peninsula’s Bali Cliff Resort, the qualified professionals of Waterworld, tel. 62361-771.992, offer instruction and tandem glides for those wanting to try it first. One of the best locations on the island to take off. No cliff-jumping involved, just a gentle breeze to lift you off the ground. It’s easier than it looks, and on a clear day you’ll see Bali from a new perspective.

Bungee-Jumping
Australian-based A.J. Hacket Company invites you to experience the wonder and excitement of jumping off a 44-meter-high tower tied to a giant rubber band. The platform, manufactured in Australia, overlooks one of southern Bali’s most spectacular beachfronts. A professional crew will take you through the preparations, then it’s up to you. Or as a spectator, sit back and relax, take a swim, have a drink at the pool bar or a snack, and just watch the jumpers.

You can also ride the lift to the viewing platform without jumping, and take in Bali from a new perspective-views stretch from the northern volcanoes to the surfing beach of Ulu Watu. On a clear day you can see Java. The fee includes hotel pickup, T-shirt, jump certificate, and comprehensive insurance. Photos and videos of the unimaginable event are extra. Right on the beach at the Double Six Club, Jalan 66, Legian, tel. 62361-730.666, fax 730.466. Open 1000 until sunset. Two other companies have emerged: Adrenalin is located to the south on the Kuta-Legian line, and Bungee-Bali (tel. 62361-758.362 or 941.102) offers Bali’s highest and only waterfall jump.

Mountain Climbing
Climbing Gunung Batur (1,717 meters) in Bangli District is one of Bali’s most heavenly experiences. The sunrise from the top is awesome. To find information on climbing Batur, in the village of Toya Bungkah at the base of the volcano look for the sign CV. Jero Wijaya Tourist Service, P.O. Box 1, Kintamani 80652, Indonesia, run by I Made Suarsana. He can explain the geologic history of the mountain, show you some excellent maps of the area, and arrange guides to the top. The guide fee includes eggs and bananas cooked in the steaming fissures at the summit, but your guide should be discouraged from engaging in this environmentally polluting practice.

I Wayan Pineh, who works in Surya Homestay in Kedisan, is one of the most experienced professional guides in the whole Batur area. Wayan specializes in leading tourists to the peak and guarantees satisfaction. From the moment he knocks on your door at 0330 until you get back at 0900, He is good-natured and fun. Don’t let the weather fool you; if he says it will be clear at the top, you can bet the farm it will be. Wayan also cooks the best volcano eggs and bananas, and he’ll take you to see black lava and the bat cave.

The climb up Bali’s highest (3,014 meters) and holiest mountain, Gunung Agung in Karangasem District of east Bali, is the most arduous of any on the island. The oval crater at the top is 500 meters across and the highest point is on the western edge overlooking Besakih. The shortest and most popular routes are from Selat via Sebudi and from Besakih Temple itself. Refer to the Gunung Agung section of the Karangasem Regency chapter for more information on tackling this imposing peak.

Other On Land Sports
If you like to play competitive sports, volleyball is popular in many villages and they don’t mind you joining a game. You can find a volleyball game just about anytime of day. The Chinese card game ‘cekian’ is also very popular. Aerobics and workout classes have become the rage in some Balinese villages. You can even see Madonna’s influence in the leotards with rawhide lacing up the legs. From July through September, kite-flying competitions take place in the rice paddies outside of Sanur. If you’re into corporate games, there’s even a jungle skirmish using paintball pellets; contact Bali Splat Mas in Sanur (tel. 62361-289.073).

Beggar’s Bush Bar and Restaurant, tel. 62361-975.009, in Campuan, just outside Ubud, is the Bali chapter’s headquarters of the Asia-wide Hash House Harriers running club. All runs start from here, as your host, Victor Mason, who runs barefoot with his two dogs, steps larger than life out of a Somerset Maugham short story. Victor, who is an author, ornithologist, and longtime Bali resident, also leads Bali Bird Walks, taking you through the beautiful countryside around Ubud where you’ll see many brilliant birds such as the striking turquoise Java kingfisher and the scarlet-headed flower-pecker. Don’t forget shorts, T-shirt, hat, walking shoes, camera, and sunscreen. Walks begin Tuesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday mornings at 0915. If Victor isn’t there, the walk will be led by several of his very able assistants.

For trekking enthusiasts, Sobek offers a three-hour jungle trek with knowledgeable guides that take you into the wilderness areas around Bedugul. The walk begins high above the twin lakes of Tamblingan and Buyan. You trek through canopied forests, past the unique Danau Dalam Tamblingan temple and enormous creeper-clad trees, then back to your waiting transport. The day ends in a restaurant overlooking picturesque rice terraces. You can do this walk by yourself for much less than the Sobek charges by just handling your own transport to Lake Tamblingan and hiring a local guide. Take long cotton trousers, a hat, walking shoes, a change of clothes, sunscreen and your camera.

You can hire forestry guides in west Bali for cross-country and jungle walks in Bali Barat National Park. Inquire at the PHPA Headquarters in Labuhan Lalang. A typical walk lasts from 1000 to 1500. If you intend to say overnight, bring a sleeping bag, mosquito netting, and all food and beverages. You can rent camping equipment from the park forestry office at Labuhan Lalang.